Things you might consider if this is your first time buying a suppressor.

Consider reading this FAQ

How does all this stuff go together?

Generally there are threads on the muzzle end of your firearm's barrel. But how does one mount a suppressor? There are two options:

What is HUB threading and why is it important?

HUB threads, AKA SilencerCo "Bravo" threads, AKA 1.375-24 threads are all the rage these days but for good reason. Basically, HUB is an unofficial standard in the suppresssor industry where the rear of the suppressor tube has female threads of the 1.375"-24tpi size. That allows you to pick and choose whatever brand of mount and muzzle device you want as long as the mount has male 1.375-24 threads on it for the suppressor to thread on to. In years past each suppressor manufacuter had their own proprietary muzzle devices so when you bought a suppressor the tube had an integrated mount. That meant that you were locked in to the ecosystem of that brand's muzzle devices. Now that a lot of manufacturers are selling HUB threaded suppressors you can freely install the flavor of mount that works with your muzzle devices and own many different brands of suppressor without too many headaches.

Types of muzzle device seating methods.

There are a few different types of muzzle device "seating", "registration", or "indexing" methods. In order to understand how these muzzle devices work you need to be familiar with the concept of clearances. It is a fact that there is clearance between male and female threads. Clearance is basically a gap between the outer size of the male threads and the inner size of the female threads. The clearance between the two is necessary so that they thread together smoothly. A good example of these clearances can be seen if you thread a muzzle device on to a barrel without tightening it, then try to wiggle the muzzle device back and forth. You'll notice that even though the two are threaded together there is still enough of a gap betwen the two parts that the muzzle device is able to wiggle around. The threads, while they should be concentric with the bore, aren't what hold the muzzle device concentric. The way concentricity is achieved is by tightening the muzzle device against a reference surface that is machined with a very close tolerance in relation to the bore of the barrel. There are a few different locations for these reference surfaces on different styles of mounting systems.

What about tri-lugs, should I use one?

Short answer: no, they are garbage.
"But whyyyyyy?" you ask. Let me tell you the reasons:

Get a taper mount like a Rearden Plan-B or Griffin EZ-LOK instead. Either one is a much better idea.

Muzzle thread sizes.

There are some standard thread sizes for muzzle threads

An expanded reference can be found here

Lubricants, what kind and where to put them.

Two major lubricants are used on suppressors. The more commonly used of these is to lubricate the piston (AKA recoil booster or nielsen device) on handgun suppressors. Use some kind of thick grease to lubricate the piston body, piston spring, and o-ring found in the piston retainer. Lots of people use white lithium. I prefer Super Lube part No. 21030, it's a synthetic grease with teflon that is temp resistant up to 450°F. It's not petroleum based so it doesn't eat o-rings like the one in the piston retainer. It performs very well even after it's wiped off the parts stay slick because of the teflon.

The other kind of lubricant is anti-sieze, you can optionally use a small amount on threads to help prevent them from sticking. Probably some form of ceramic anti-sieze would be best since metal based ones can be messy.

Serviceable vs. Non-Serviceable Suppressors.

You might think that serviceability on a suppressor is a big deal and that it's important to be able to disassemble the suppressor for cleaning. In some cases it is necessary. For instance, .22LR suppressors in which the amount of fouling buildup after 500 rounds can be significant. Lots of pistol cans in the 9mm and .45 sizes can be disassembled for cleaning, they are just designed that way however don't take that as a sign that the baffles need cleaning often. For centerfire rifles, it's not so important because the amount of buildup is minimal. While it is possible to buy a centerfire rifle suppressor that can be disassembled it's not really necessary. The ones that can be disassembled end up being bigger and heavier and generally more clunky than a sealed, fully-welded baffle stack.

When do I clean my suppressor?

How often you should clean depends on what kind of suppressor you have. Having a serviceable suppressor means you can take it apart and remove the baffles for cleaning. Non-serviceable suppressors are welded together at the factory and cannot be disassembled.

On centerfire suppressors it's really more important to clean the mounting system than to clean the inside of the suppressor. If you have a QD mount it's a good idea to clean the tapers on the muzzle device and inside the mount after every range trip.

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